Arts & Opinion.com
  Arts Culture Analysis  
Vol. 25, No. 5, 2026
 
     
 
  Current Issue  
  Back Issues  
  About  
  Podcasts  
 
 
  Submissions  
  Subscribe  
  Comments  
  Letters  
  Contact  
  Jobs  
  Ads  
  Links  
 
 
  Editor
Robert J. Lewis
 
  Senior Editor
Jason McDonald
 
  Contributing Editors
Louis René Beres
David Solway
Nick Catalano
Robert Lyon
Chris Barry
Howard Richler
Gary Olson
Jordan Adler
Andrew Hlavacek
Daniel Charchuk
 
  Music Editor
Serge Gamache
 
  Arts Editor
Lydia Schrufer
 
  Graphics
Mady Bourdage
 
  Photographer Jerry Prindle
Chantal Levesque
 
  Webmaster
Emanuel Pordes
 
 
 
  Past Contributors
 
  Noam Chomsky
Mark Kingwell
Charles Tayler
Naomi Klein
Arundhati Roy
Evelyn Lau
Stephen Lewis
Robert Fisk
Margaret Somerville
Mona Eltahawy
Michael Moore
Julius Grey
Irshad Manji
Glenn Loury
Richard Rodriguez
Navi Pillay
Ernesto Zedillo
Pico Iyer
Edward Said
Jean Baudrillard
Bill Moyers
Barbara Ehrenreich
Leon Wieseltier
Nayan Chanda
Charles Lewis
John Lavery
Tariq Ali
Michael Albert
Rochelle Gurstein
Alex Waterhouse-Hayward
 
     

INTIMATE APPAREL PARADOX

by

REBECCA COLLINS

_________________________________________

Rebecca Collins is a freelance writer/editor.

 

On the subject of my underwear,
which I buy once every ten years,
I don't put on airs for nobody,
less the unscented air that pass through them.
If at the end of the day
I throw them against the wall and they don't stick,
they don't need washing.
Butch Reynolds

 

To look closely at a woman in her private sanctuary is to see a strange paradox at the heart of modern identity.

Across the world, intimate apparel and luxury nightwear have exploded into a staggering enterprise. It pulls in between $95 billion and $105 billion every year. Within that massive economic engine, the specific niche for sensual lingerie, chemises and negligees carves out a cool $18 billion to $25 billion worldwide. Global giants like Victoria’s Secret, Hanesbrands, Wacoal, and the Etam Group dominate the floor, alongside high-end luxury houses like La Perla and Agent Provocateur, and direct-to-consumer darlings like SKIMS and Savage X Fenty.

Yet long after the credit card is swiped and the glossy box is tossed, the ultimate destination for these clothes is quiet.

A woman stands in front of a full-length mirror. She turns slowly. She checks the sharp line of lace against her hip, nudges a delicate bias-cut silk strap, or studies the sheer outline of a mesh bralette. The piece itself—maybe a whisper of Chantelle lace or an architectural cut from Fleur du Mal—contains barely five square inches of fabric. Yet it costs a fortune that wildly outpaces its physical size, running into the hundreds, sometimes thousands of dollars.

Here is the industry's first big irony: a multi-billion-dollar business model built entirely on the idea that the less fabric you get, the more you pay.

In what other business do you hand over exponentially more cash for what isn't there? A heavy winter coat built from yards of thick wool and lined with intricate tailoring might cost a fraction of a bespoke silk-and-tulle chemise that could fold up inside an envelope. The buyer isn't paying for durability. She is paying for an idea, an aesthetic standard, and above all, a private illusion.

The old story—the one handed down by decades of retail marketing and male-dominated critique—says this elaborate armour of seduction is bought for a partner’s viewing pleasure. Whether for a husband in a quiet bedroom or a lover in a secret affair, the traditional pitch for luxury lingerie always centered on the male gaze.

Look candidly at a woman's actual day-to-day life, though, and that old story falls apart fast.

For the vast majority of women buying high-end lingerie, a partner is an occasional spectator at best. The person spending the most time looking at these pieces is the woman wearing them. She is the performer, the critic and the sole audience in her own private theater. Standing before her reflection, she shifts and turns: fixing her posture, watching silk drape against skin, seeing how her body interacts with the structured boning of a corset or the soft edge of a bralette.

Which brings up an uncomfortable question: Is this just a modern, digital-era narcissism? Have younger generations, raised on an endless stream of selfies and carefully staged identities, simply become obsessed with their own images?

When someone spends thirty minutes quietly studying their own body, the line between healthy self-appreciation and self-fixation gets blurry. Modern psychology talks a lot about self-objectification—how people internalize an outsider's gaze and turn it on themselves. But in the quiet of a bedroom, that process turns into something far more intricate. It becomes a closed feedback loop: she creates the image, evaluates it and consumes it.

Is it any real surprise, then, that this kind of focused physical attention can lead to self-pleasure? The feel of heavy silk against skin combined with visual self-approval builds a completely self-contained system of gratification. The wearer becomes entirely self-sufficient. She provides her own standard of beauty, her own sensory reward, and her own validation. A partner's presence suddenly feels secondary—almost unnecessary—compared to the primary relationship between the woman and her reflection.

Dismissing all of this as pure vanity misses a quiet biological mechanism working under the surface, though.

Science has proven for years that feeling attractive and secure triggers a real chemical cascade in the brain. Feeling confident sparks a release of endorphins, dopamine, and oxytocin—the very chemicals tied to better moods, lower stress and even a stronger immune response.

Think about the psychological armour tucked beneath a sharp business suit or basic casual clothes. Through a brutal workday in a high-stress corporate office, a woman might be wearing a hidden set of exquisite, eye-wateringly expensive lingerie. No coworker sees it. No client knows it’s there. Yet the physical awareness of that hidden layer acts as a constant, subconscious boost. All day long, the tactile brush of fine silk or precise lace serves as a secret reminder of personal identity, luxury and physical presence. It lets her quietly carry a sense of elegance through the most mundane or hostile spaces. In that light, the garment isn't an invitation to someone else at all; it's a private talisman—a secret power source built strictly for her own mind.

Still, that internal empowerment collides head-on with an unresolved ideological tension: the ongoing friction between the luxury intimate apparel market and the unfinished business of women's liberation.

For decades, feminist critique worked to dismantle the idea that a woman’s worth should depend on her sexual attractiveness or decorative value. The goal was a world where women were judged for their intellect, agency and achievements, free from the burden of acting as visual objects.

Yet today, women everywhere—including highly educated, independent, and progressive women—continue to enthusiastically buy into an industry built on deeply traditional, hyper-sexualized imagery. Men still stare at attractive women, and the visual language of the lingerie world continues to borrow heavily from the exact male fantasies early feminists set out to dismantle.

The modern market tries to fix this contradiction by rebranding everything as empowerment and self-care. We're told that buying a two-hundred-dollar lace bra is an act of radical self-love—a sovereign choice made strictly for oneself, far removed from any outside gaze.

Can an industry anchored in razor-thin beauty standards and high-priced seduction really be reframed as true liberation? Or is it just a slick commercial pivot—a clever way to ensure that even as women gain financial freedom, they remain tied to commercial standards of physical self-scrutiny?

When a woman stands before a mirror admiring a microscopic arrangement of silk and lace, she sits right at the intersection of liberation, vanity, biological chemistry and commercial marketing. She may genuinely feel powerful, confident and buoyed by what she sees. But she remains caught in a fascinating modern irony: spending small fortunes on clothes meant to be hidden, searching for self-actualization through the art of self-gazing, and playing an ancient game of visual display where the ultimate viewer, judge and lover is simply herself.

 

also by Rebecca Collins

Break Dancing: The Revolution
Berber Tent Sexuality

We Are the Miracle: An Appreciation

Why Hetero-Women Are More Disposed Than Hetero-Men to Homosexuality

Why Kids Are Disgusted by the Thought of Parents Having SEX

Diabetic Industrial Complex

 

READER FEEDBACK

 

Arts & Opinion, a bi-monthly, is archived in the Library and Archives Canada.
ISSN 1718-2034

 

 
Logo approved by www.artsandopinion.com
Logo approved by www.artsandopinion.com
Logo approved by www.artsandopinion.com
Logo approved by www.artsandopinion.com
MEGABLAST PODCAST with JASON McDONALD
Logo approved by www.artsandopinion.com
Logo approved by www.artsandopinion.com
Logo approved by www.artsandopinion.com
Logo approved by www.artsandopinion.com
Logo approved by www.artsandopinion.com
Logo approved by www.artsandopinion.com
Logo approved by www.artsandopinion.com
Logo approved by www.artsandopinion.com
 
Logo approved by www.artsandopinion.com
Logo approved by www.artsandopinion.com
Logo approved by www.artsandopinion.com
Logo approved by www.artsandopinion.com
Logo approved by www.artsandopinion.com
SPECIAL PROMOTION: ads@artsandopinion.com
Logo approved by www.artsandopinion.com
Logo approved by www.artsandopinion.com
Logo approved by www.artsandopinion.com
SUPPORT THE ARTS @ Logo approved by www.artsandopinion.com
Valid HTML 4.01!
Privacy Statement Contact Info
Copyright 2002 Robert J. Lewis